DJEMBE-L FAQ Djembe Rings

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Feuer <rfeuer@bcn.net>
Date: Sunday, July 26, 1998 9:52 PM

Dear List,

I am reworking a new djembe shell from Guinea. It's an 11 7/8" diameter head. Drum teachers at LYB were commenting on the size of its rings as being too large. So I took the skin off, and I'm going to a local machine/metalworking shop to get new, better fitting rings made. The rings that came on the drum are made of coiled wire. I want to get some solid, re-bar rings made.

I checked out the FAQ, and maybe I couldn't find this info, or maybe it isn't in the FAQ.

Happy,

This might make a good thread to put up under making your own djembe.

Call for all information:

1. What diameter re-bar is suggested for fabricating djembe rings?

2. What diameter should the three rings be, relative to the diameter of
the top, and to the diameter of the waist of the drum?
>
>3. Any other good info on ring sizing and fabrication?
>
>4. The flare at the foot of my drum is so large that a ring that fits over the flare is too wide for the drum's waist. This results in a ring that rides too high up the bowl. This results in cutting down the
>verticle distance between upper and lower rings. A poor effect on tuning. My thought is to have a smaller, lower ring welded while on the drum. I thought the welder could slip a piece of wet wood, or other thermal shunt under the weld point to avoid scorching the drum. I think it will be difficult to make the smaller ring, and then get it on over the waist. But I have no other ideas on how to get a ring of smaller diameter than the drum's foot onto the waist.
>
>5. Finally, how much larger than the diameter of the waist should the lower ring be?
>
>Thanks for taking the time to answer.
>
>Please no "I guess" answers or other B.S., this info should be solid for posterity (FAQ), and for little old me.
>
>Bob.
>---

-----Original Message-----
From: R Clark <clark@acceleration.net>
Date: Sunday, July 26, 1998 11:09 PM

Hail Bob
There is only one of the specs that I am nearly sure I have correct, is that 3/16 inch mild or stainless steel, is thought to be a good compromise.It seems that thinner they distort and thicker they have no give. I would eyeball the rest, the ring u gotta specify. But what do I know, the folks
at http://www.rhythmtraders.com/html/supplies.html carry ones in 1/4" steel, ranging from 6" to 20", in 1/2" increments, probably close enough and maybe they do and maybe they don't get the cigar.

been mixin it up pretty good out there in debacles Ville, i see. i cant remember if it was you or charlie wondering how many folks have her on ignore. I dont i shunt her into a separate folder and when i need clarification of what the nice folks have edited out i look there in its
original context. I find i need to look less and less, content with the distance of the edited version. Europe huh?

Thanks and Praises
Blessed Be
In Time
R

Robert Feuer <rfeuer@bcn.net> wrote:

Call for all information:

1. What diameter re-bar is suggested for fabricating djembe rings?

-----Original Message-----
From: HappyShel <happy@drums.org>
Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 5:08 AM

Bob Freur wrote:

I am reworking a new djembe shell from Guinea. It's an 11 7/8" diameter head. >Drum teachers at LYB were commenting on the size of its rings as being too large. >So, I took the skin off, and I'm going to a local machine/metalworking shop to get >new, better fitting rings made. The
>rings that came on the drum are made of coiled wire. I want to get some solid, >re-bar rings made.

ANSWER:

In making djembe rings, I go to local iron yard and purchase 1/4" cold-rolled steel in 20' lengths. Cost in Dallas is $15 for 40 feet. I have the yard man cut into 10' lengths so I can carry it. My good friend Duke is a welder and has a roller. I take the djembes & steel to him and he sizes and Electro-welds each ring to precisely fit each djembe. It takes approx 30 minutes to make each ring. By Electro-welding the rings, each ring is welded from the inside/out which creates the STRONGEST bond of the steel. Cold-rolled steel is by far STRONG and once welded, the rings have never popped. The total cost is about $7.50 for each djembe.

Of course, you can always bend it by hand or use an anvil and hammer it to shape - if you are a purist.

Hope this helps.

Peace & Blessings,
HappyShel
Dallas, Texas

NOTE: Since writing the above, I have found a planetary ring bender from Harbor Freight (see Link) very reasonably, abt $55 including freight. Djembe-L FAQ is an Affiliate Partner with Harbor Freight's Online Store. They have many good values and back up all they sell 100%. Some major cities have brick-and-mortar stores.

MAKE METAL WHEELS AND RINGS!

High quality, precision machined roller forms rings out of hot rolled flat stock. Metal sizes up to 3/16'' x 1'' and up to 1/4'' round. Create rings from 3'' diameter to as large as you need. All surfaces are heat-treated and hardened for long life. Create chandeliers, plant holders, ornamental iron work and more.

..this is where the ring bender (above) (for djembe, ashiko and dundun rings) and welding equipment can be found at good prices. And, your purchases help support the Djembe-L FAQ, as the FAQ is an Affiliate Partner.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Trevino <DanTrevino@psu.edu>
Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 6:26 AM

Bob,
My answers to your question are based on my limited experience in skinning jembes (less than 12). Others may have different opinions.
On Mon, 27 Jul 1998 Robert Feuer wrote:
[snip]
1. What diameter re-bar is suggested for fabricating djembe rings?

   1/4 inch diameter

2. What diameter should the three rings be, relative to the diameter of the top, and to the diameter of the waist of the drum?

    top rings: just wide enough to allow 2 thickness of wet skin between the rings and the outer rim of the bearing edge. Snug fit is desired! bottom ring: small enough to ride just above where the pipe meets the bowl.

3. Any other good info on ring sizing and fabrication?

    I would recommend welding the rings closed, as opposed to braising or any other method that would produce a weak joint.

4. The flare at the foot of my drum is so large that a ring that fits over the flare is too wide for the drum's waist. This results in a ring that rides too high up the bowl. This results in cutting down the vertical distance between upper and lower rings. A poor effect on tuning. My thought is to have a smaller, lower ring welded while on the drum. I thought the welder could slip a piece of wet wood, or other thermal shunt under the weld point to avoid scorching the drum. I think it will be difficult to make the smaller ring, and then get it on over the waist. But I have no other ideas on how to get a ring of smaller diameter than the drum's foot onto the waist.

   You got this right. Your local welding shop can weld the bottom ring right on the drum shell and can protect the wood with a non-flammable blanket between the ring and the wood. My local welding shop did this for me once.

5. Finally, how much larger than the diameter of the waist should the lower ring be?

See my answer to your question #2 above.

Thanks for taking the time to answer.
Bob.

You are welcome.
Dan Trevino.......

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Tauber <tauber@radmail.harvard.edu>
Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 9:05 AM

>Bob,
>
>May I refer you to some expert reheaders and ring makers? Matthew and Nathaniel of Everyone's Drumming, Putney, Vermont (USA), have redone my drums and student's drums too. I believe they are not far from you if you wanted to visit to get the kind of help you seek. I don't have the number handy but they're on the net. Also, I'm sure they'd try to help you by phone.
>
>Good luck,
>Alan
>
>Thanks for taking the time to answer.
>
>Please no "I guess" answers or other B.S., this info should be solid for posterity (FAQ), and for little old me.

Bob.

-----Original Message-----
From: DANGREGG1@aol.com <DANGREGG1@aol.com>
Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 9:58 AM

In a message dated 98-07-27 00:49:53 EDT, you write:

ting on the size of its rings as being too large. So I took the skin off, and I'm going to a local
> machine/metalworking shop to get new, better fitting rings made. The rings that came on the drum are madeof coiled wire. I want to get some solid, re-bar rings made.

By larger rings I'm not sure you mean thicker rings or rings that stand farther away from the shell of the drum. I personally like working with the larger rings that stand farther away from the drum shell as I find it easier to work with these. Biggest problem I find with these larger rings is getting
the bottom (stem) ring to sit straight after stringing the verticles. Have no experience with "re-bar" and don't know if you can get it in 1/4" size. I personally have a wender ben 1/4 " "cold-rolled steel for rings. I take a cheap 1/4 " easily maleable wire, make a template, and tell the welder to make 3 rings identical in size to my templates. Sometimes I have to have them made a little bigger or smaller. The right size rings, to me, make all the difference in the world in ease of reheading a drum!

Dan
>

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Olson <brian@sirius.com>
Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 12:04 PM

>Hello Robert and List,
>I've read these recent posts about sizing metal djembe rings. One key thing that I haven't heard anyone mention is that you have to leave enough space between the top ring and the drum to accommodate the rope harness. I do this by casually wrapping some of the rope around the ring while I am measuring for the hacksaw cut. Also, I agree with Happy that 1/4" cold (or
>hot) rolled steel is about right. Rebar is available in 1/4" diameter, but it is a material I don't particularly like. Even though it is a malleable material, I have often had it break while I was bending it for its intended use: reinforcement in concrete work. I've made steel rings with and for
>African drummers. They don't seem to mind a ring that is a little too big. That's because they usually wrap the upper rings tightly with cloth, thus increasing the ring's diameter and insuring a snug fit to the drum. The rationalist in me balks at this, but I have been told that if the rings are
>not snug then sound will leak out around the rim and the drum won't sound good. I tried it. I don't know about the sound, but its a very good technique. I wrapped the lower top ring and found that it made drum reaheading much easier for me. The pressure and snugness of the first ring
>held the wet skin in place while I did the rest of my work. Also, I think it decreases the chances of the upper ring shifting and slipping over the lower.
>
>Good luck with your project,
>Brian Olson

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Feuer <rfeuer@bcn.net>
Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 3:03 PM

>R Clark wrote:
>>
>> Hail Bob
>> There is only one of the specs that I am nearly sure I have correct, is that 3/16 inch mild or stainless steel, is thought to be a good compromise.
>SNIP>
>
>Thanks R Clark,
>
> I've gone with 3/8" rebar. I won't know the cost till I ick them up next week. Our local Metal fab shop was willing to make rings in 1/16" increments, but they make same to order.
>
>Bob.
>
>PS> Sounds like a neat way to handle the overburdened bandwidth. Apologies for stiring up the pot lately.

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Feuer <rfeuer@bcn.net>
Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 5:36 PM

>Alan Tauber wrote:
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> May I refer you to some expert reheaders and ring makers? Matthew and Nathaniel of Everyone's Drumming, Putney, Vermont (USA), SNIP>
>
>Dear Alan
>>
>> Thanks for taking the time to answer.
>
>
>> Bob.
>

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Feuer <rfeuer@bcn.net>
Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 5:38 PM

>Brian Olson wrote:
>>
>> Hello Robert and List,
>> I've read these recent posts about sizing metal djembe rings. One key thing that I haven't heard anyone mention is that you have to leave enough space between the top ring and the drum to accommodate the rope harness.SNIP>
>
>Brian,
>
> Thanks for adding to the mix on djembe rings.
>
>Bob.

From David Anhalt <danhalt@cis.saic.com>
In response to questions about making rings, someone (who? I don't know, but I thank them) reported that Harbor Freight offers a Planetary Ring Roller that looked like it would work.

Since I had be laborously bending rings by hand, I quickly ordered one. After playing with it for a while, I think anyone that makes more-than-a-very-few rings might be interested.

What is it?
=======
It's a Harbor Frieght Planetary Ring Roller, Model #36790.

It's a hand powered roller thingy that uses three rollers to pinch the steel rod and force it into an arc. A big nob on the top controls the relationship of the three rollers. Moving the rollers closer together, causes the radius of the arc to decrease.

======
Price?
====
I got it over the Web for 39.99 + about $10 in S&H. But I just checked the web page, and it has mysteriously jumped to $49.99. Must be $25% better, now, huh? ;-)

Comment:
=======
This is a surprisingly well-made little gizmo. The tool is easy to use, and solid. It easily bends 1/4" steel rod. Each axle has a grease nipple, so with a little maintenance, I'd expect it to last a long time.

Assembly: You only have to install the handle, using a tapered pin. You line up the holes, start the pin, and whale on it with a hammer. No skill required. The tool needs to be clamped or bolted to something when in use. It comes with bolt hole for this purpose. Storing is in a closet and "C"-clamping it to a kitchen table for use is prefectly reasonable.

Use: It doesn't take much strength to turn the crank. There is no calibration, so you have to find the setting for the diameter you need by trial-and-error. However, you can send the steel through the machine over-and-over, so "sneaking up" on the diameter you want is a reasonable plan. HOWEVER, if you go past your desired diameter (i.e, bent to a too small diameter), the tool won't help you straighten it out (at least I couldn't get it to).

If you have long steel, you can keep cranking it through and the tool will create a spiral (kinda like a very wide coil spring). When done, you can cut the indiviual rings off the coil with a hacksaw (or whatever).

To start a piece of steel, you have to back off the setting to get the steel started, then re-tighten the setting. Once you've got the setting for your diameter, you need to count the turns, so you can return to the right setting ("I backed of 6 turns to get the steel started, so now I need to tighten 6 turns to get back to where I was..."). Retightening with steel in the tool takes a little more wrist-power that I would like, but drummers have strong wrists, right?, and you can always two-hand it.

It'll also roll flat stock up to 3/16"x1", which might be useful for anyone making conga rings.

On the negative side:
This is a Chinese import, and (like most Chinese import tools), it's manual is bad to non-sensical. If you take the manual seriously, the beast will only make 1", 2", and 3" rings (perfect for the little Barbie djembe you've been wanting to make ;-). Don't panic, it'll do larger rings.

The lack of a calibration scale is a pain. The manual suggests you scribe the moving part with a scratch-awl at your desired setting, but the part only moves about an inch, so I doubt that marking it will provide the control you want.

The feed relies on the pinching action on the smooth steel, so I don't know if it will work for those of you that like to make rings out of rebar. If anyone wants to send be a piece of rebar, I'll try it.... :-)

Overall, I thinks it was a great deal @ 39.99 and a better-than-average deal @ 49.99. If you make rings, and you value your own time, then a simple tool that can form a ring in about a minute, will pay for itself quickly.

Dave A.

From: Denis Robinson <dj.robinson@auckland.ac.nz>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 7:19 AM
Subject: Re: [djembe-l] 2 and a half rings!

          As a result of Lennart's recent query about slipping skin, the topic of using three rings rather than two to give extra purchase (which was discussed a little while back), has re-surfaced. I never liked
the idea too much on account of the extra weight it would involve. But since then I've seen *another* alternative which appeared to have some of the same merits without the extra weight.

On the drum I saw, the skin had been wrapped under the lower ring in the normal manner, and folded back up. The lower ring had been situated a little below the rim of the drum, and a cord run around
the skin above the lower ring, and tied. So the skin was being held (quite lightly I presume) against the drum shell, hair side against the drum, cord against the flesh side. Then the skin had been folded
back down over the cord and lower ring, and the top ring lowered and laced down on top of that in the normal manner (normal except that of course now the top ring rests on the hair side of the skin and the
folded-back-down edge of skin is beneath the vertical cords which tighten the ring, rather than over them). In other words, the setup was much like using three rings except the middle ring was replaced
by the cord. This appeared to work just fine.

         Another hint which might be helpful here: I'm a great believer in a trick I read in djembe-l last year. (Could it have been Johannes Schya who posted it? Someone in Europe, anyway, I believe.) What you do is lay the wet skin on a towel, or such, hair side up, and lay the lower ring in position on top of it. Fold the edges of the skin up and over the ring and in towards the centre. Then take a good strong
needle and ordinary cotton thread, and start sewing the edges in position. Just zig zag across from one edge to another and back making a kind of star pattern. Tie off and start again if the thread runs out. It's good to have maybe 15 or 20 threads zig zagging back and forth. Take care the ring doesn't move out of position in the process. You may need to use a pair of needlenose pliers to hold the needle to pierce the skin. There is no need to make the thread very tight.

       Once this is done you have a nice little skin/ring module, a sort of pancake. Take it and place it in position on top of the drum, place the top ring in position on top of it, and proceed as usual. If your
problem is the skin slipping while it is wet and you are putting the initial verticals in (rather than later when the skin has dried and you are pulling diamonds), this should help. I find the method surprisingly effective in that even if the cotton threads are individually not very strong, if you do it as I describe the whole setup is strong enough to hold the skin in place until the upper ring gets pulled down hard enough to start to get a good grip, after which, it is to hoped, the problem goes away.

Cheers all,

Denis

...................................AND
From: Denis Robinson <dj.robinson@auckland.ac.nz>
To: <djembe-l@onelist.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 6:38 AM
Subject: Re: [djembe-l] two rings and a half, etc. ..

Michael Wall kindly said:

Thank you to Denis Robinson for posting this:

<SNIP>

Yee ha! Make perfect sense. The 3 ring issue becomes more common the higher we tune. What a GREAT solution!

mw

and Jerry Z said

     Even so, a good drum with perfectly fitted hoops top and bottom-no extra space between 'hoops plus skin' and shell on top - bottom hoop fitted close so it cant pull crooked. As many knots as possible using small bottom hoop to determine maximum amount. A visit to a welder and a couple of extra days and a small fee for the blacksmith spirits may be all you need to have a traditional '2 hoop' drum that works properly and should not slip.
     Which ever system you use, take the time to do it right.
                 - JZ

Hi Michael!   -- Btw I haven't forgotten I have to post something to you. Should be soon, though currently I am flat out running like a lizard drinking with a bushfire behind it, at work. ... I really
should add that the person who had done the drum I saw was Jimi Dale and you were present I believe on the occasion I noticed it (the drum was Darryl's). (Listers won't know these folks but globe-trotting
Michael does.)

and Jerry, --   basically I agree. I guess I've only headed djembes about 20 times so far, so my experience is limited compared to many who write to this list, or whom I know (e.g. Jimi would have done
hundreds). But I have to say the only time I've had a clear case of rings slipping, the rings were too large AND they were on the thin (so flexible) side AND they were smooth, not re-bar, AND they hadn't
been wrapped. I've never ever had rings slip any other time (once the head was dried) and I crank them up about as tight as anyone in town (one reason I've done it a few times, they do pop occasionally,
usually when I've been careless about protecting them from rapid temperature and/or humidity changes).

The one thing I disagree about is the need for lots and lots of verticals. I find that 24 or 25 knots making 48 or 50 verticals is ample, though 32 or even 36 knots can look very cool if that's your
taste. (I tightened a drum for a friend recently that had 45 knots but I call that excessive.) BUT the fewer knots you have the more important it is to keep them evenly spaced. And the looser the fit of
the rings, the more this (even spacing) matters. I am a great believer though in using re-bar, preferably wrapped. My favourite is to wrap them in the sticky tape stuff they use to wrap the handles of
tennis rackets. I expect someone will tell me some reason why this is a bad idea, but I like it (the tape is sticky on one side and I feel the sticky kind of oozes through just a tad, helping to give a good
grip: at any rate, obviously it's stuff designed for skin - as on players' hands - not to slip on).

Finally: other things being equal, rings are more likely to stick if the playing edge doesn't have a smooth curved contour for the skin to slide over easily. Spraying the smooth curved contour lightly with
silicone spray to help the sliding is also good. And as Jerry said, take the time to do it right.

Cheers all,

Denis

Hail Denis, Michael, Jerry Z, and ALL,

<SNIP>
But I have to say the only time I've had a clear case of
rings slipping, the rings were too large AND they were on the thin
(so flexible) side AND they were smooth, not re-bar, AND they hadn't
been wrapped.

How large is too large? I wonder once again. In my experience a drum I
needed to shorten due to the bearing edge looking like several miles of dirt
road, got smaller and the rings stayed the same size. When I went to head it
I noticed that the rings were 1.5" oversize, (I.E. 3/4" all the way around)
with no appreciable difference in size between the two rings. It took me
hours of futzing about to get the head to seat right, I went round and round
with it getting one part right fixing another and then going back and fixing
the first area that had gotten caddywampus and on and on. At the end of the day I got everything to line up pretty well dried the head a few days and
then pulled it up. A couple days later it was playable and not really up to
tune so I put in a row of diamonds and was literally pulling the one that
was going to finish the tuning and.... the top ring slipped down over the
support hoop. What a "sinking feeling" that was. I took it to the blacksmith
and had new rings made (I could have had the original rings cut down and I
was very emotional about them and wanted nothing more to do with them) the heading job this time with the rings custom made to the drum to allow for
it's lack of true roundness went effortlessly and in a matter 15 minutes I
had the head set ready to sew up the verticals. Moral of the story: Not
having swell fitting rings is false economy, the time and materials wasted
would have paid for the new rings that I needed to buy any way.

The one thing I disagree about is the need for lots and lots of
verticals. I find that 24 or 25 knots making 48 or 50 verticals is
ample,

For the average djembe 11" - 14" diameter, I usually use 21 and find
this adequate... this sets the knots about an inch (or a likkle more) apart
on the top ring. The fewer knots you have the more important it is to keep them evenly spaced. And the looser the fit of the rings, the more this (even spacing) matters.

I know this is going to sound a bit silly and this is how I do it. I decide
how many knots I want and measure the diameter of the ring... then here it
comes... I plug the numbers into the DrumCalc program (for building a staved
Ashiko) from Dan Sterantino putting in the measured diameter for the top
ring and the number of staves desired and random numbers for the height and
bottom diameter, click on 'calculate' and poof there is the distance, center
to center, for the knot spacing. Then I tie the first two knots and measure
center to center to reflect the value given for the top of the stave in
DrumCalc. This done I cut a soda straw to fit between the two knots and
clamp it in a pair of hemostats giving me a T-gauge to easily measure what
distance the knots need to be side to side and then do my macrame' work with the rest of the lark's heads.

I am a great believer though in using re-bar, preferably wrapped.
I overstand this in theory and if the hoop is wrapped I don't notice any
difference between the re-bar and smooth. If anything I think that the hot
or cold rolled steel is preferable. Re-bar is not what I would call a high
quality product, there can be voids in it that might weaken it and cause it
to separate.

My favourite is to wrap them in the sticky tape stuff they use to wrap the handles of tennis rackets.

My favorite is cloth bicycle handle bar tape and this is pretty expensive
comparatively. I still use it sometimes as it is easy to apply and feels
sooo nice and soft while having a high friction surface. Tennis racket tape
is cheaper, the one for wrapping baseball bats still cheaper and the tape
for wrapping hockey sticks the cheapest I have found. What is great is that
these tapes are "cut on the bias" or specially woven, so they wrap much more smoothly than cloth that is "ripped on the grain".

I expect someone will tell me some reason why this is
a bad idea, but I like it (the tape is sticky on one side and I feel
the sticky kind of oozes through just a tad, helping to give a good
grip: at any rate, obviously it's stuff designed for skin - as on
players' hands - not to slip on).

Not me, you have my company in this, "great minds think alike" ; ^ )>

If I use cloth to wrap the ring here is something I noticed about the
African djembes as I was disassembling them. This makes a good case for
paying strict attention when taking your drum apart the first time, too. The
original wrapping job had the cloth folded so the folded edge was visible
and the furry edges covered by the subsequent wrapping. In my original thot
process I was thinking that labor must be cheap over there to take the extra
time and care that this requires with likkle or no return for the effort. So
i wrapped the cloth around leaving the furry edges exposed and as I looked
it over... all these stray threads were slippery to the touch. Exploring it
mentally and tactilely OTOH the folded edge was like the threads of a screw
which when presented to skin trying to slide past them would try to deflect
the skin to the side and "bite" into the skin gripping it. Additionally,
wrapping the hoop in this manner looks soo much better and finished looking.

Finally: other things being equal, rings are more likely to stick if
the playing edge doesn't have a smooth curved contour for the skin to
slide over easily.

After getting the bearing edge totally in one plane... making sure that the
bearing edges are properly rounded is very, very important IMO to how the
drum sounds and even how comfortable it is to play. I feel that the outside
edge needs to be rounded over to present the bluntest edge to the hands.
After the skin makes this "corner" ideally there is no additional wood left
inside to contact the underside of the skin. If there is, this can cause a
buzz and makes it more difficult to tune out the over-ring, I think. So I,
at worst, case counter cut the wood after the bearing edge (toward the center of the drum) away at an angle to eliminate this. Additionally, a drum with a more gradual corner seems to have a more mellow sound and is easier to tune according to a thread two weeks ago over on the newsgroup
< rec.music.makers.percussion >

Spraying the smooth curved contour lightly with silicone spray to help the sliding is also good.

In the same discussion of bearing edges on the ng someone mentioned teflon
tape as a means to this end.

And as Jerry said, take the time to do it right.

If I take my time does that mean I'll have more of it? ; ^ )
For sure, I am a perfectionist and ones have accused me of being
obsessive/compulsive. What Ever, I do things as if they were the last thing
I were ever going to do and strive for excellence all the while. Yes this
takes longer... and I am also lazy IE I don't want to come back and re-do a
job due to rushing it the first time. For example: This is why I proof my
e-mail and even run a spel-chek (sic...if a word is miss spelt in my mail
usually I am just spelling creatively to reflect my speech patterns or to
abbreviate) on it a lot of times. I quote myself, "Love lasts 'til the
party's over, E-mail is forever." Many ones simply dash thru life it seems
and let the chips fall where they may, taking out of focus snapshots all the
while to look at in their rocking chairs after retirement. I think that
"taking my time" involves savoring each moment in sharp focus and truly
enjoying my labors of love. I get my "pay" upfront this way, and when and if
I get a paycheck then it is truly a "bonus" as I am already content with how
I spent my time. As with most everything it seems it is not what game you
play, it is how you play the game you do play.

Apologies for a bit more than the allotted 2%.

Blessed BE
IN Time
®
Salaamalekum (Peace be unto you.)
® clark@acceleration.net
Gainesville, FL USA

From: Mike Evans [TenRsax@msn.com] Fri 12/26/03 1:15 PM

I have found by using a 1/2" Chevy engine pulley of 6-8" dia., screwed to a wall or long board, you can secure the end of a 3/16" steel rod with visegrips and bend different dia. ring sizes very smoothly. By moving the vicegrips further down the length of the rod, you can make larger rings smoothly with a little practice. Check the dimensions using a circle drawn on paper. After welding, fine tune the shape using a shop hammer over a softwood stump or chunk of wood. Lay ring on an old piece of formica countertop to see any high-low areas that need to be hammered. This method is a good substitute for commercial ring/tubing rollers, is pretty fast, and think of the coin you've saved. Mike Evans

Welcome To
DJEMBE-L FAQ
Djembe Rings
V9d

MAKE METAL WHEELS AND RINGS!

ITEM 36790-0VGA $49.99

Welcome To DJEMBE-L FAQ Djembe Rings V9d

MAKE METAL WHEELS AND RINGS!

ITEM 36790-0VGA $49.99

Welcome To
DJEMBE-L FAQ
Djembe Rings
V9d